Eastern Approaches

Introduction

Samarkand and Bukhara are fabulous sounding names, the stuff of legend and travellers’ tales, of poetry and folklore, names that conjure up impossibly remote and exotic destinations. But also, now major tour destinations: all tours to Central Asia now include them. Whilst the days when a visit by a European to Bukhara was a death sentence are – thankfully! – long past, much of Central Asia, it has to be said, is becoming increasingly commonplace. This tour, however, goes beyond the popular images. It goes to Samarkand and Bukhara of course – they are famous for good reason! More important, it visits some of the lesser known but equally spectacular architectural masterpieces of this fascinating part of the world.

The Lower Oxus and Aral Sea region – the Republic of Karakalpakstan – lies at the remote heart of Eurasia but is home to perhaps the most contrasting and diverse history and remains of Inner Asia. The Karakalpak people are a distinct Turkish related people, forming an autonomous republic within Uzbekistan. Today it is best known for the 20th century’s greatest environmental catastrophe: the disappearing Aral Sea. Once the fourth largest body of inland water in the world, it is now only a tenth of its size, and its former shoreline at the ghost port of Muynak is a now haunting ships’ graveyard of rusting hulks.

In contrast, the present Karakalpak capital of Nukus contains one of the most surprising gems of the entire former Soviet Union: the Savitsky Art Collection, a spectacular collection of Soviet avant-garde art squirreled away in remote Nukus so as to be far from Stalin’s disapproving gaze. Another astonishing gem in this little known republic is the glittering 18th century Khanate of Khiva, the most intact traditional walled town in all Central Asia with mosques, minarets, city gates, madrasas and the notorious slave markets all perfectly preserved.

The region is also home to the gaunt remains of the little known ancient Chorasmian civilisation. Once a well watered region of canals, gardens, works of art and crowded cities in the area between the Oxus and Jazartes Rivers, it is now a waterless desert where huge remains of this once flourishing civilisation loom over distant horizons.

Outside the main cities, much of Central Asia has remained out of reach for many years. This tour takes advantage of specialist knowledge, contacts and extensive experience in the region as well as new opportunities and facilities now opening up to make them accessible once more. But our entirely new tour in October 2012 will be our first to focus on the extraordinary region of Karakalpakstan in detail.

Information

Extra Notes

We arrange for full visa support and procurement, including all fees, to be obtained through an authorised visa agency. For this we require a photocopy of your passport and other information as requested 3 months before travel. Note: separate authorisation is not required for Karakalpakstan.

Accommodation

Good quality comfortable 3-5 star throughout, with emphasis on location and local ambience. The exception will be one night in tents by the Aral Sea: there is no alternative to this, however all camping facilities are provided

Travel

Comfortable air-conditioned coach apart from 4 days visiting the Choresmian sites and the Aral Sea, which will be by 4-wheel drive vehicle (3 passengers per vehicle)

Local Conditions

This tour will be strenuous in parts: there are some long days of travel requiring early starts, 4 days in 4-wheel drive vehicles, many hotel changes and 1 night camping. However, there are also some very leisurely days with most overnights two in the one place in comfortable hotels, with a very leisurely day in Khiva at the end. Some walking around city centres and sites is required, but our transport takes you to all sites. Weather in October is expected to be dry and bright with warm days but cold evenings and early mornings.

Please note that much of this tour is off the normal tourist beat, so minor alterations to the sightseeing and a certain element of unpredictability might prevail. There might also be some changes following a visit to the area earlier in 2012 to inspect facilities, conditions and sightseeing