Eastern Approaches

Introduction

European river cruises are amongst the world’s most popular holidays, and travel agency brochures are packed with seductive glossy pictures of the Danube, Rhine and Seine – and the rivers themselves equally packed in the summer season. But few have heard of the Lake Komani boat trip, a humble ferry voyage described by the Bradt Guide as ‘one of the world’s most classic boat trips, up there ... with the Norwegian coast or the ferry from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales in Chile’?

Few, on the other hand, have not heard, of Kosovo. But contrary to images conjured up by media reports of fighting now well in the past, few realise that this tiny country – Europe’s newest – has a wealth of the unknown, the undiscovered and the unexpected: painted mosques and monasteries, old Ottoman towns and bazaars, and some of the most breathtaking alpine scenery in southern Europe.

For long Albania was Europe’s most isolated country, even more cut off than other Iron Curtain countries – in the end it even broke ties with both Communist giants, the Soviet Union and China. Yet this isolation belies its remarkable heritage reaching back to the Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman civilisations not to mention its own rich indigenous culture: Shakespeare’s country of Illyria. Lying at the heart of the Balkans – throughout history one of Europe’s most pivotal regions – Albania and Kosovo have always been open to cultural influences more than most. A Muslim – but hardly ‘Islamic’ – country within Europe, Albania is a model of tolerance with its Orthodox and Catholic communities – not to mention Greek, Vlach, Turkish, Serb and other minorities. Kosovo on the other hand has associations with nationalist sentiments, both from the Ottoman victory at the Battle of Kosovo in 1389 and its war of independence in recent years. Stability and prosperity are now restored and Kosovo enjoys an open border with Albania as both countries sharing a common language and culture move closer to each other.

Taking advantage of a surprisingly good infrastructure, this tour offers a rare glimpse of little known treasures in this little known corner of Europe. Today, both countries are perhaps the most diverse – and certainly the most rapidly changing – in Europe, as well as one of its least discovered gems.

Information

EXTRA NOTES:

In addition to the general practical information, please note that visas are not necessary for UK nationals. The local English speaking guide will be the same for both countries.

ACCOMMODATION:

comfortable good quality 3-4 star throughout, with particular attention given to location and local character. In Gjakova in Kosovo this is a beautifully converted old Ottoman Mansion. In the Sharr Mountains this is a resort hotel in lovely surroundings where walking is possible. Since both countries’ tourist infrastructure is still very new, hotel facilities might be simple. However, all are clean and all rooms have private facilities with hot and cold running water. Priority is given to good quality local cuisine throughout

TRAVEL:

International flights are on British Airways. All land travel is in a comfortable new Neoplan coach with the same coach and driver for both countries, apart from Lake Komana which is a 4 hour journey on public ferry

LOCAL CONDITIONS:

Tourism is still relatively new: Albania has spent most of the last 50 years in complete isolation, and Kosovo has experienced recent traumatic warfare. A visitor therefore must come with an open mind and be prepared to be adaptable. Local conditions might entail minor modifications to the itinerary. However any minor setbacks or discomforts are amply compensated by the genuine friendliness of Albanians and Kosovars as they reach out to the outside world. Visas are not required by either country and the border crossing has minimal formalities

Most of the itinerary is very mountainous and many of the roads are quite poor (although these are rapidly being upgraded), which might make some long days even though distances are small. This is compensated by being interspersed with more leisurely days, and all overnights are for 2 or more nights. Weather is expected to be typical springtime: warm sunny days, although showers can occur. There should be lovely displays of wildflowers.